Rethymno to the south – Armeni Necropolis, Spili, Preveli and other highlights

From the Armeni necropolis via Spili, Plakias, Moni Preveli, Palm Beach, the Kourtaliotiko Gorge to Agia Galini in the south of the province of Rethymno on Crete.

plakias damnoni beaches
Damnoni Beaches near Plakias

The Rethymno region in southern Crete combines ancient history, lively traditions and impressive landscapes. From the ancient necropolis of Armeni to the mountain village of Spili and the Moni Preveli monastery, you will gain a deep insight into Cretan culture.

Plakias and Agia Galini attract visitors with their relaxed beaches. The palm beach at Preveli, with its clear river, has an almost tropical feel.

This route through the province of Rethymno takes you to historical sites, spiritual centres and natural beauty spots that showcase the authentic Crete. Preveli Monastery is a symbol of the Cretan struggle for freedom and preserves valuable relics.

The Armeni necropolis provides insights into Minoan life. The villages and beaches reflect modern-day Crete.

Overview: The south of the Rethymno region in Crete

Kato Moni Preveli
Kato Moni Preveli, the abandoned lower Preveli monastery.

South of Rethymno, you will find historical sites and wild natural landscapes along the coast of the Libyan Sea. The region stretches from the mountains to the south coast and offers culture, history and many unspoilt beaches.

Geographical location and how to get there

The southern part of the province of Rethymno lies between the Cretan Sea in the north and the Libyan Sea in the south. The area is characterised by mountains that stretch to the south coast.

From Rethymno town, you can reach most places in the south in 30 to 50 minutes by car. It takes about 50 minutes to get to Preveli Palm Beach.

Well-maintained roads lead to Plakias and Agia Galini, sometimes with narrow hairpin bends. Rethymno’s central location makes the town the perfect starting point for day trips.

You can easily combine the mountainous countryside and the coast. This is handy if you want to experience different sides of the region.

Significance of the region for history and culture

To the south of Rethymno are important archaeological sites from different periods. The Armeni necropolis dates from the Late Minoan period (14th century BC) and comprises 280 tombs.

Many of the artefacts discovered there, including painted sarcophagi, can now be seen in the Archaeological Museum of Rethymno. The Moni Preveli monastery played an important role in Cretan history.

It towers above the famous palm beach and attracts those interested in history and religion. The villages inland, such as Spili, still preserve traditional ways of life and architecture.

Brief overview of the main sights

Armeni Necropolis is located on the northern edge of Armeni, directly on the main road. The Minoan cemetery is impressive for its size and good condition.

Spili is a mountain village known for its Venetian lion fountains. Many people stop here on their way to the south coast.

Moni Preveli Monastery and Preveli Palm Beach are among the most famous destinations in the south. The palm beach with its river and palm forest is located directly below the historic monastery.

Plakias is a coastal town with long sandy beaches and is a good base for beach days or hikes.

Agia Galini is a small fishing village on the south coast that has retained much of its original charm.

The Armeni Necropolis: The ancient burial ground near Rethymno

Nekropole Armeni
Gravesites of the Armeni Necropolis [By Olaf Tausch – Own work, CC BY 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=10777694]
The The Armeni Necropolis is located about 9 kilometres south of Rethymno on Crete. It is one of the largest Minoan cemeteries ever discovered.

Here you will find over 220 chamber tombs from the 14th and 13th centuries BC. They offer fascinating insights into late Minoan culture.

Archaeological significance of the necropolis

The cemetery dates from between 1390 and 1190 BC, the so-called Late Minoan III A and III B periods. Families used the tombs, which were carved into soft limestone.

Most of the tombs are oriented in an east-west direction. Each tomb is accessed via a long corridor, the dromos, which runs diagonally into the ground.

Stone slabs sealed the burial chambers. The largest tomb at the southern end has a 16-metre-long dromos and a square chamber with sides measuring 5 metres.

Some larger tombs have pillars carved out of the rock to support the ceilings. Archaeologists found around 500 skeletons in the tombs.

The dead lay curled up in clay sarcophagi, painted wooden coffins or directly on the ground. Men lived to an average age of about 30, women only 23.

Minoan sarcophagi.
Minoan sarcophagi in the Archaeological Museum in Heraklion.

Excavations and discoveries

In 1969, two students discovered the necropolis when they brought Minoan vases to the museum in Rethymno. Archaeologist Giannis Tzedakis began the excavations, which continue to this day.

The grave goods show Mycenaean influence. The finds include:

  • Decorated vessels and vases
  • Bronze weapons and tools
  • Jewellery
  • Clay figurines
  • An amulet with Linear A script

The sarcophagi from the larger chambers are often painted with double axes (labrys), octopuses, cult horns and hunting scenes. These motifs provide clues to the religious beliefs of the late Minoans.

You can see the finds in the Archaeological Museums of Rethymno and Chania. The size of the necropolis suggests that the inhabitants of a larger settlement were buried here, the exact location of which has not yet been found.

Visitor experience and practical information

The necropolis is located on the road from Armeni to Somatas, about 1.5 kilometres north of Armeni. There is a small car park directly in front of the entrance.

The tombs are scattered under a sparse forest of Valone and Kermes oaks. This provides pleasant shade during the tour.

The larger burial chambers are illuminated so that you can also see the interior. The cemetery is open every day except Tuesdays.

More information about the finds can be found in the museums of Rethymno and Chania. The access road from the main road is well signposted.

Although the Armeni necropolis is one of the most important archaeological sites in Crete, it remains quite peaceful. Those interested in history will find it a relaxing place to visit.

Spili: The authentic mountain village in the province of Rethymno

The The mountain village of Spili is located about 30 kilometres south of Rethymno at an altitude of 430 metres. It is an important junction between the north and south coasts of Crete.

With its Venetian fountains, small cafés and relaxed atmosphere, Spili, with its 800 inhabitants, is an ideal stopover. Here you can really take a deep breath.

Historical and cultural highlights of Spili

The name Spili comes from the Greek word for ‘cave’ and refers to the many caves in the area. The history of the village dates back to Byzantine times.

Today, Spili is the main village in the municipality of Agios Vasilios. Even Plakias and Agia Galini, both 20 kilometres away, have been part of the larger municipality since 2010.

In the village, you will find three Venetian-style churches and well-preserved traditional houses. Despite its location on the main road, Spili has retained its authentic character.

The narrow streets and lively village square invite you to linger and observe. You can feel that this is where the real Crete lives.

The Venetian lion head fountains

The most famous sight in Spili? Without a doubt: the Venetian fountain in the middle of the village square. Clear spring water, which originates above the village, gushes from 25 stone lion heads.

You can drink the water without hesitation and fill up your bottles. Such a fountain is really rare in Crete.

From the large car park, it is just a 250-metre walk to the fountain. All around are shady cafés where you can watch the hustle and bustle.

Souvenir shops offer local products and handicrafts. There is a relaxed, lively atmosphere in the square.

spili loewenkopfbrunnen
The Venetian lion’s head fountain in Spili.

Hiking and nature around Spili

Spili’s location makes the village an ideal starting point for hikes. The surrounding area consists of green olive groves and mountains offering impressive views.

Many use Spili as a stopover on their way to the Preveli Palm Gorge on the south coast. The road there leads through a varied landscape dotted with small Cretan villages.

Its central location between Rethymno and the Messara Plain opens up many possibilities for day trips. If you love nature and want to experience Crete away from the major tourist resorts, this is the place for you.

Kourtaliotiko Gorge: The spectacular natural monument

kourtaliotiko Gorge

The Kourtaliotiko Gorge, often also referred to as Kourtaliotiko Gorge is one of the most impressive gorges in central Crete. It stretches for three kilometres between the villages of Koxare and Asomatos.

The rock faces are up to 300 metres high – quite impressive when you stand in front of them.

Natural phenomena and the name of the gorge

The name ‘Kourtaliotiko’ comes from the Greek ‘Kourtala’ (clapping). This comes from the wind whistling through the narrow crevices, making a sound that resembles clapping hands.

The gorge is an important habitat for rare birds of prey such as the bearded vulture. The barren rocks contrast sharply with the green valley floor, where the Megalos Potamos river flows.

The springs and the chapel of Saint Nikolaos

In the middle of the gorge, you will find the springs of Kourtaliotikos, which supply the river with water all year round. From the roadside car park, steps lead down to the small chapel of Agios Nikolaos Kourtaliotis.

Waterfalls plunge into the depths right next to the chapel. The crystal-clear water collects in natural pools before flowing further south to the palm beach of Preveli.

In summer, the coolness of the water and the shade of the rocks are a real blessing. No wonder this place is popular on hot days.

Exploring the gorge

There are two ways to experience the gorge. The panoramic road by car offers several viewpoints with sweeping views into the depths.

Those who prefer a more adventurous experience can take the hiking trails directly along the riverbed. The tour leads through water and over boulders, so you need to be sure-footed and wear good shoes.

At the end, the gorge opens up to the Preveli plain, connecting the mountains with the coast. A rather exciting transition, in my opinion.

Moni Preveli Monastery – spiritual centre and symbol of resistance

Moni Preveli

The Preveli Monastery stands about 170 metres above the Libyan Sea on the south coast of Crete. It combines religious significance with an eventful history of resistance.

The complex consists of two separate monastery complexes and houses valuable ecclesiastical art treasures.

History of Moni Preveli Monastery

Preveli Monastery is dedicated to Saint John the Theologian and looks back on a long history. It is considered one of the most important monasteries in Crete.

Its foundation dates back to the Byzantine period. Moni Preveli became a centre of the Cretan resistance.

During the Turkish occupation, freedom fighters met here in secret. During the Second World War, the monks hid Allied soldiers and helped them evacuate.

The German occupation destroyed parts of the monastery in retaliation. Nevertheless, Preveli remained a symbol of freedom and independence.

Today, a few monks still live here and maintain the spiritual traditions.

The two monasteries: Kato Monastiri & Piso Monastiri

Preveli Monastery consists of two separate complexes. The Kato Monastiri (lower monastery) is closer to the coast, while the Piso Monastiri (rear monastery) is located about 2 kilometres further up.

Kato Monastiri was abandoned in the 19th century and is now a ruin. Parts of it were rebuilt as a museum in 2015.

Piso Monastiri forms the active centre. At its heart is the two-nave church dedicated to Saint John the Theologian and Saint John the Baptist.

The monks’ cells and the abbot’s residence are located in the western and southern parts of the complex.

The monastery museum and art treasures

The monastery museum is located slightly below the main complex, near a fountain dating from 1701. Here you will find an impressive collection of ecclesiastical art and liturgical objects.

The exhibition displays liturgical vestments, icons and various utensils from different periods. These objects tell us a great deal about the religious and artistic tradition of Cretan monasteries.

The art reflects Byzantine and later influences. There are also documents and objects that recall the monastery’s role in the resistance.

Moni
Preveli is thus more than just a religious site – it remains a living monument to Cretan history.

Resistance and legends: Moni Preveli monastery through the ages

Moni Preveli Monastery went from being a religious centre to a symbol of Cretan resistance against various occupying powers. The monks played an active role for centuries, supporting insurgents and hiding Allied soldiers during the Second World War.

The monastery in Ottoman times

In 1649, the Ottomans completely destroyed the monastery for the first time. After its reconstruction at the end of the 17th or beginning of the 18th century, it became a centre of Orthodox resistance.

In 1878, a major uprising broke out. Piso Moni Preveli served as the rebels’ headquarters, supplying them with equipment and food.

The monks organised secret meetings in a hidden room behind a door in the back wall of the monastery. As punishment, the Turks destroyed the monastery again.

However, the abbot brought all the monks to safety in time. At the end of the 19th century, they rebuilt the monastery and continued the fight for freedom.

Significance during the Battle of Crete (Second World War)

During the Battle of Crete in 1941, the monastery actively helped with the evacuation of Allied soldiers. The monks hid British, Australian, New Zealand and Greek soldiers who had missed their ships to Egypt.

They organised the secret rescue via the palm beach of Preveli. From there, the soldiers were picked up by boats.

The monks risked their lives for this rescue operation. Their courage made the monastery a symbol of resistance against the German occupation.

Modern significance and the Preveli Project

Today, only three monks live in the monastery. Since 1960, the monastic community has been shrinking and many buildings behind the church have fallen into disrepair.

The museum displays sacred objects from the 17th and 18th centuries as well as weapons from the period of resistance. You can visit the grounds for a small entrance fee.

Employees guide visitors around the grounds. The restoration work carried out at Kato Moni Preveli in 2015 shows how much effort is being put into preserving the historical heritage for the future.

Preveli Palm Beach and the natural wonders of the surrounding area

Preveli beach

The Preveli Palm Beach brings together some pretty spectacular natural features. A wild river winds its way through a dense palm forest and flows directly into the turquoise sea.

Steep rock faces frame the whole scene, creating an almost cinematic backdrop.

Palm Forest & Megalos Potamos (Big River)

The Megalos Potamos rises in the Kourtaliotiko Gorge. It flows to Preveli Beach, where it empties into the Libyan Sea.

A shallow lagoon forms on the beach, where fresh water and salt water meet. Wild Theophrastus palms (Phoenix theophrasti) grow along the river.

These palms are rare and are found almost exclusively in Crete. They are protected by law.

The palm forest stretches upstream from the beach through a narrow canyon. You can follow the river for a while and walk in the shade of the palm trees.

Along the way, you will pass small pools of water. On hot days, the water feels like a mini oasis.

In the past, the palm forest was often threatened by fire. Nowadays, rangers monitor and protect the area.

It is best to stay on the marked paths. You should definitely not leave any rubbish behind here.

Kourtaliotiko Gorge and the path to the beach

Kourtaliotiko Gorge is located north of Preveli Beach. The Megalos Potamos river flows through it from the mountains down to the coast.

Steep rock faces rise up on the left and right. The most popular access to the palm beach starts in the east.

A marked hiking trail begins at a tavern and a large car park. Depending on your pace, the descent takes about 15 to 25 minutes.

The path is challenging: lots of steps, rocks and sandy sections. It’s best to wear sturdy shoes.

Pack water, sunscreen and something for your head. From the top, you have a magnificent view of the bay, the palm forest and the Libyan Sea.

The view makes up for the strenuous walk. It’s really worth it.

Kourtaliotiko Gorge
Southern end of the Kourtaliotiko Gorge (from Olaf Tausch – own pic, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=2327263)

Preveli Lake and scenic highlights

Right on the beach, the Megalos Potamos forms a small lagoon that some call Preveli Lake. The water is calm and shallow, perfect for cooling off.

Here, the cold river water mixes with the warm sea water. Palm trees line the lagoon and the sea shimmers in all shades of blue.

The beach consists of fine sand and smooth pebbles. The landscape seems almost tropical.

Green palm trees contrast with the barren rocks of the south coast. Who would have thought that Crete could look so exotic?

In summer, from June onwards, the beach gets really crowded. Many tourists arrive by bus or boat from Plakias and Agia Galini.

If you prefer it quieter, come early in the morning or out of season in May or October.

Plakias: The beach resort on the Libyan Sea

Plakias

Plakias is located directly on the Libyan Sea. Here you will find a long sandy beach and a relaxed village atmosphere.

The village is a good mix of beach relaxation and a starting point for excursions in the surrounding area. Busy, but not too busy.

Location description and atmosphere

Plakias was once a small fishing village. Today it is a popular holiday resort.

The village is located about 35 km south of Rethymno, directly on the south coast. Mountains rise to the north and the Libyan Sea to the south – quite impressive.

The main beach stretches 1.3 kilometres along the coast. It consists of fine gravel and sand.

At the eastern end, the water remains shallow for a long way out – practical for families with children. Along the promenade, you will find taverns and cafés.

Here you can enjoy fresh seafood and Cretan dishes. You can hire parasols and sun loungers on the beach.

A stream flows through the middle of the village, dividing Plakias into east and west. The banks are green and lush.

The village has a relaxed atmosphere, much quieter than the north coast. I’m not the only one who likes that.

Leisure activities and excursions in the surrounding area

Several beaches are within walking distance of Plakias. Souda Beach is only about 10 minutes to the west – a small bay with crystal clear water.

Damnoni Beach is a 5-minute drive away. Here you will find golden sand that almost glows.

The Kourtaliotiko Gorge is a popular destination for hikers. The tour is about 3 km long and leads through steep cliffs.

In spring, there are even waterfalls here. The Moni Preveli Monastery is perched above the Preveli Gorge with a view of the sea.

The monastery dates back to the 17th century. Boats depart from Damnoni Beach to Preveli Palm Beach.

Boat trips along the coast depart regularly from Plakias. You can discover hidden bays and go snorkelling along the way.

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Agia Galini: Maritime highlights on the south coast of Crete

Agia Galini
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Agia Galini is a picturesque fishing village about 55 kilometres south of Rethymno. The houses are lined up from the harbour square up the hillside, making the village one of the most beautiful in Crete.

History and development of Agia Galini

Agia Galini has been permanently inhabited since 1884. The harbour soon became important for the olive oil trade and even got a customs station.

Until the middle of the 20th century, it remained a quiet fishing and harbour village with few houses. The first backpackers arrived in the 1970s.

The village then developed into a large holiday resort on the south coast of Crete. Today, you will find a mixture of traditional atmosphere and tourist infrastructure.

The narrow streets stretch from the harbour up the hillside, many of which are car-free. According to Cretan mythology, Daedalus and Icarus began their escape from King Minos here.

A monument in the new amphitheatre commemorates this story. The amphitheatre has 300 seats – quite impressive for such a small place.

Harbour, culture and culinary offerings

The harbour is the heart of Agia Galini. Here you will find a string of tavernas and restaurants serving fresh fish and Cretan specialities.

In summer, excursion boats sail to the palm beach of Preveli and the Paximadia Islands. The local beach east of the harbour consists of coarse pebbles and is divided by the Platis River.

A footbridge connects the two parts of the beach. The amphitheatre on the cliff serves as a stage for cultural events and offers a great view of the harbour and the town.

Those who are out at night will find a few bars and discos. Agia Galini is the perfect starting point for day trips to the Palace of Phaistos, the caves of Matala or Rethymno.

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Frequently asked questions

Kalypso Cretan Village Plakias
Kalypso Cretan Village Resort & Spa near Plakias.

As a visitor to the Rethymno region, you will undoubtedly have practical questions about opening hours, accommodation and how best to get there. The Armeni Necropolis has limited opening hours, the Preveli Monastery does not offer accommodation, and there are plenty of things to do at Palm Beach.

What are the opening hours of the Armeni Necropolis?

The Armeni Necropolis is an important Minoan burial site from the Late Bronze Age. Opening hours vary depending on the season.

In summer, the site is usually open from morning until afternoon. In winter, it closes earlier.

It is best to check the current times before your visit. The necropolis is sometimes closed on Mondays.

Can you stay overnight at Moni Preveli Monastery?

Tourists cannot stay overnight at Moni Preveli Monastery. A few monks still live there, and the monastery is an active religious centre.

You can visit it during the day and see the icons and the monastery church. You should check the opening hours in advance.

For overnight stays, you will have to go to Plakias or other surrounding towns. There you will find hotels and guesthouses in various price ranges.

What activities does Preveli Palm Beach offer visitors?

Preveli Palm Beach is known for its tropical atmosphere with palm trees and a river flowing into the sea. You can relax and swim on the sandy beach.

Swimming in the river is also popular. The water is only 30 centimetres deep in some places, but several metres deep in others.

The surrounding area is ideal for hiking and exploring. Small waterfalls and oleander bushes make the landscape special.

The beach is also great for snorkelling and photography.

What accommodation options are there in Plakias?

Plakias offers various types of accommodation: hotels, guesthouses and apartments. The village is located directly on the bay and you are right on the beach.

Many rooms have sea views. There is everything from simple rooms to comfortable resorts.

In high season, it is best to book early. There is a wide selection, but the best places are quickly snapped up.

What is the best way to get to Agia Galini?

The road from Rethymno via Spili takes you to Agia Galini. The journey takes about an hour by car.

A hire car gives you the most freedom. But of course, buses also run regularly from Rethymno to Agia Galini.

The route winds through the mountainous landscape of Crete. From the north coast, it goes through the middle of the island to the south coast.

What historical sights are there in the province of Rethymno on Crete?

The province of Rethymno is full of fascinating historical sites from very different eras. The Armeni Necropolis dates back to Minoan times and has over 200 chamber tombs – quite impressive when you think about it.

The Moni Preveli monastery was probably built in the 16th or 17th century. It is dedicated to St. John the Evangelist and contains some truly valuable icons.

In the town of Rethymno itself, there is a Venetian old town and a large fortress. Smaller monasteries and old churches can be found throughout the region.

Many of these places are reminders of Crete’s Venetian and Byzantine past. If you like history, you will definitely get your money’s worth here.

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