East of Chania: Souda Bay, ancient Aptera and its ruins, Georgioupolis, Lake Kournas, the Church of Panagia in Alikambos and the Askifou War Museum.
The region east of Chania combines history, nature and a wealth of Cretan culture. Here you will stumble across ancient ruins, Ottoman fortresses, quiet beaches, Crete’s only freshwater lake and small mountain villages that still feel truly authentic.
The area is often quieter than other parts of the island. But honestly, it’s just as exciting.
Souda Bay is a great starting point for your tours. From there, you can quickly reach ancient Aptera, which towers impressively over the bay.
The Drapanos Peninsula and Apokoronas show you a side of Crete that not every tourist gets to see. Small villages, hidden bays – you’ll find them here.
Further east, Georgioupolis awaits with its long sandy beach. Lake Kournas is only a few kilometres away and is perfect for swimming.
Inland, you will discover the Byzantine church in Alikambos. And if you’re interested in history, the Askifou War Museum in the mountains is worth a detour.
Highlights east of Chania
It has everything: historical sites, natural harbours, picturesque coastal towns. You can explore ruins, relax on quiet beaches or simply stroll through a Cretan village.
Important sights at a glance
Souda Bay is the main port of the region and is said to be one of the deepest natural harbours in the Mediterranean. The port is located about 6.5 kilometres east of Chania Town and connects Crete with the mainland – ferries run regularly.
The Souda Bay War Cemetery commemorates the soldiers of the Second World War. The atmosphere there is peaceful and the view of the bay is quite special.
The ancient city of Aptera is perched on a hill above Souda Bay. Here you will find Roman cisterns, Byzantine monastery ruins and a Turkish fortress.
From Aptera, you can see far across the bay and all the way to Chania. The view is really worth it.
Georgioupolis is a relaxed seaside resort between Chania and Rethymno. The long sandy beach and the eucalyptus avenue at the entrance to the village give the whole place a special charm.
Lake Kournas, the only natural freshwater lake in Crete, is just a few kilometres to the south and is ideal for pedal boating.
The Panagia Church in Alikambos dates back to the 14th century. Inside, you will find impressive Byzantine frescoes.
The Askifou War Museum showcases the Cretan resistance movement during the German occupation. A small place steeped in history.
Travelling between attractions
A hire car gives you the most flexibility. The main road to Rethymno connects the most important towns on the coast.
Public buses run regularly from Chania Town to Souda, Georgioupolis and Rethymno. You can also reach smaller villages by bus, but they run less frequently.
Taxis are worthwhile for short distances. Or if you want to visit several places in one day.
The distances are manageable: Chania to Souda takes 10 minutes, to Aptera about 20 minutes, to Georgioupolis around 40 minutes. Lake Kournas is another 10 minutes south of Georgioupolis.
However, you really need your own car to get to Alikambos and the Askifou Plateau. Public transport does not run regularly there.
Tips for day trips
For a day trip to Aptera, it is worth starting early – the midday heat can be really intense.
Don’t forget water and sunscreen, as there is hardly any shade on the site.
Combine Aptera with a stop in Souda or a visit to the beach on the Akrotiri peninsula. That will make your day complete.
A day at Lake Kournas is perfect for families. You can rent pedal boats and eat at the taverns on the shore.
The lake is surrounded by mountains, and you can always find a shady spot under the trees on the shore.
The mountain villages south of the coast can be reached via winding roads. Alikambos is about 30 minutes from Chania.
If the church is locked, just ask for the key in the village – it usually works.
The Askifou Plateau is on the way to Sfakia on the south coast. You can easily combine a visit to the museum with a drive through the Imbros Gorge.
Recommended itineraries
Route 1: Historical Day – Start in Chania Old Town, drive to Aptera (20 mins), see the ruins (2 hours), visit the War Cemetery in Souda (30 mins) and have lunch back in Chania.
Route 2: Coast and nature – From Chania to Georgioupolis (40 mins), relax on the beach, then continue to Lake Kournas (10 mins), go pedal boating and eat at a lakeside tavern.
Route 3: Mountain villages – Drive from Chania to Alikambos (30 mins), visit the church, then continue to the Askifou Plateau (1 hour), visit the museum and enjoy the mountain scenery.
Route 4: West Crete tour – Combine several highlights: Souda Bay and Aptera in the morning, lunch in Georgioupolis, afternoon at Lake Kournas. It’s a full day, but definitely doable.
Discover Souda Bay
Souda Bay is located about 6 kilometres east of Chania and is one of the largest natural harbours in the Mediterranean. It is bordered by the Akrotiri Peninsula to the north and combines natural beauty with strategic importance.
Natural beauty and importance
Souda Bay is one of the deepest natural harbours in the Mediterranean. Here you will find sheltered waters that offer safe anchorage all year round.The bay stretches between the main part of Crete and Cape Meleha on Akrotiri. Its strategic location made it important even in ancient times.Today, NATO and the Greek Navy use the harbour. The water depth and orientation protect ships from wind and waves.The water is crystal clear – perfect for snorkelling. Try out a sea scooter or simply enjoy the tranquillity on the shore.Along the coast, you will find small beaches and rocky coves. They are a little hidden, but that makes them all the more beautiful.
Souda as a port city
Souda is best known as a port city. Ferries to Piraeus dock here daily, usually quite early in the morning.In July and August, there are even additional daytime ferries. At the harbour entrance, you can see the large silos of a flour mill that has been in operation since 1928.The mill processes 450 tonnes of wheat daily and produces 500 tonnes of animal feed. From the harbour, a bus will take you to Chania for £1.50 – tickets are available from the ticket machine.Buses run approximately every 20 minutes. In Souda, you will find taverns serving Cretan cuisine and fresh fish.There are cafés on the central square where you can have breakfast or a quick coffee. The waterfront promenade is ideal for a stroll.
Viewpoints and photo spots
The Souda Bay War Cemetery is located on a hill with a panoramic view of the bay. The Allied military cemetery was established after the Second World War.
From there, you have a moving view. High above the bay, you will find the ancient site of Aptera.
From Aptera, you can see the entire bay and the Akrotiri peninsula. The ruins are located on a high plateau overlooking Lefká Óri.
The small island of Fraronisi in the Gulf of Souda is an exciting photo opportunity. The Venetians built a fortress there in 1538, which can still be seen today.
On 14 February 1913, the Turkish flag was replaced by the Greek flag on this island. A small but historically significant detail.
Ancient Aptera and its ruins
Aptera is located on a plateau about 150 metres above Souda Bay. Just 13 kilometres east of Chania, you’ll find an archaeological site with views that are truly impressive.
As you walk through the ruins, you can feel the history from the Bronze Age to the Turkish occupation. It is a special place – not only for history buffs.
History of the city and significance
Aptera has been around since the Bronze Age. It appears as ‘a-pa-ta-wa’ on Linear B tablets from Knossos.
In the 8th century BC, Aptera slowly grew into an important city. During the Hellenistic and Roman periods, it was a bustling place.
The people of Aptera were mainly traders and ship owners. They took full advantage of its location right by the sea.
In the 4th century BC, Aptera minted its own coins, mostly with Artemis as the motif. In 365 AD, a huge earthquake changed everything.
The quake destroyed large parts of the city. After that, things went downhill, and in the 7th century, more disasters struck – earthquakes and Saracen raids.
Nevertheless, the area was not completely abandoned. In the 12th century, the Patmos monastery asked Emperor Alexios III Comnenus for the land of Aptera.
In the 19th century, the Turks built the Koules fortress using ancient materials. The history of the city is therefore quite eventful.
Exploring the archaeological site
When you walk through Aptera today, you will see ruins from different periods. The theatre from the 3rd century BC has not been completely restored, but the semicircular stone seats and the orchestra pit are immediately recognisable.
The Roman cisterns really stand out. These vaulted water reservoirs show how cleverly the Romans built at that time.
You can also discover the remains of a Roman house from the 1st and 2nd centuries AD. It certainly belonged to a wealthy family.
The city walls date from several eras and surround the site. Just outside the western wall, you will find ancient tombs.
The 16th and 17th-century monastery of Agios Ioannis the Theologian is also still standing. It seems almost out of place next to the ancient ruins.
The 19th-century Turkish fortress of Koules stands in contrast to the older buildings. At the time, it was intended to keep revolutionary movements in Crete under control.
Mythology and legends
The name ‘Aptera’ means ‘without wings’ in Greek. According to legend, the sirens lost their wings here.
The muses challenged the sirens to a singing competition – and won. Afterwards, the sirens’ wings fell off.
They fell into the sea and turned into the white rocks that you can still see today in Souda Bay. This explains the name of the city and the striking rocks surrounding it.
Artemis was considered the patron goddess of Aptera. Her image adorned the town’s coins.
During excavations, archaeologists found incense burners and small figurines that point to the cult of Artemis. The goddess clearly played an important role for the people here.
Practical visiting tips
The archaeological site is located near the village of Megala Chorafia in the Apokoronas region. From Chania, it takes about 20 minutes by car – just follow the road east along Souda Bay.
Admission is inexpensive and the site is open daily. Wear comfortable shoes, as the site is extensive and partly uneven.
Don’t forget sunscreen, as there is little shade here. Allow at least two hours for your visit.
Early in the morning or late in the afternoon is more pleasant because it is not so hot then. The Archaeological Museum of Chania has many finds from Aptera on display – ceramics, coins, grave goods and more.
Fortresses and monasteries around Aptera
The Aptera site is more than just old stones. There are also Ottoman fortresses with great views and a Byzantine monastery that is still standing.
Koules: The Ottoman fort
The Koules Fortress stands on the site of Paleokastro, about 12 kilometres east of Chania. The Turks built it between 1866 and 1869 using stones from the old fortifications of Aptera.
Their aim was to keep the Cretan uprisings under control. The fortress is also known as Soumbasi Fortress.
It is still in fairly good condition today. From up here, you have one of the best views over Souda Bay.
The view stretches across the whole of western Crete. You can reach the fortress directly from the village of Kalami.
Aptera Fortress and View
The ancient fortress of Aptera is located on a plateau 150 metres above sea level. The great earthquake of 365 AD destroyed many of the old walls.
Nevertheless, several sections are still standing. You can walk along the fortifications and marvel at the huge stone blocks.
The location above Souda Bay was strategically brilliant. For centuries, Aptera controlled the entire region from here.
From some points, you can even see the White Mountains in the south. Anyone standing here had a view of everything.
Monastery of Agios Ioannis Theologos
The monastery of Saint John the Theologian stands directly on the grounds of Aptera. The foundation walls date from the 16th and 17th centuries.
The monastery used to belong to the Patmos monastery. In the 12th century, Patmos asked Emperor Alexios III Comnenus for the land in order to secure income from it.
In 1960, the monastery ceded most of the land to the Greek state. Today, the monastery is well maintained and still in use.
The Byzantine architecture stands out from the ancient ruins surrounding it. It almost seems like an oasis of calm among all the old stones.
Discover hidden ruins
The ruins stretch across the entire plateau south of Souda Bay. The theatre was only opened to visitors in 2016 after excavation and restoration work.
It is located in the middle of an olive grove. Here you will find traces from different periods: Bronze Age settlement remains, Roman houses, Byzantine buildings.
Aptera was continuously inhabited from the Bronze Age to Christian times. A Roman peristyle house from the 1st century AD shows how well some families here fared.
Take your time, as the site is large. Sturdy shoes are recommended for navigating the uneven paths between the ruins.
Drapanos Peninsula and Apokoronas
The Drapanos peninsula juts out into the sea like a trident, somewhere between Georgioupolis and Souda Bay. Here you’ll find a colourful mix of small coastal towns, old villages and quiet beaches.
The Apokoronas region encompasses the fertile hinterland. Many of the mountain villages here have remained fairly unspoilt, and it’s green anyway.
Places on the Drapanos Peninsula
Drapanos itself is located high up on the cape and still has a very traditional feel, even if things are slowly changing. Two tavernas and a small shop provide you with the essentials.
It is about 39 kilometres from Chania Airport, and the journey takes about 50 minutes. Almyrida is the nearest seaside resort, only ten minutes away by car.
There you can swim right by the sea and eat in the taverns. The peninsula is located between the larger holiday resorts of Kalives and Georgioupolis.
Both places offer more infrastructure and mark the cornerstones of the area. Northwestern Apokoronas stretches between these two coastal towns.
Beaches and bathing spots
There are several beaches along the coast where you can swim and sunbathe. Ombros Gialos Beach is one of the better-known beaches here.
The small bays on the rocky peninsula are often much quieter than the large beaches. Here you can usually swim undisturbed and explore the coast.
Some sections of the beach are protected by Natura 2000, which preserves the natural environment. The Cantina Beach Bar invites you to relax right by the water.
From many points along the coast, you have a great view of the Aegean Sea. This is something special.
Experience traditional villages
In the hinterland of Apokoronas, you can experience authentic Cretan villages. Vamos is one of the most important traditional villages here and is located in the green part of the region.
Kefalas is located near Drapanos and belongs to the same municipality. In Plaka, there are additional amenities and entertainment – both are only a short drive away.
You will always find someone to chat to in the village coffee houses. Short walks through the green countryside are well worth it and give you an impression of traditional life.
Many villages are situated on slightly elevated ground and offer beautiful views of the coast and the surrounding countryside. It’s easy to linger here for a while.
Explore Georgioupolis and the surrounding area
Georgioupolis offers a long sandy beach, calm waters for families and a good selection of tavernas right by the sea. The town is conveniently located between Rethymnon and Chania and is an ideal starting point for excursions.
Georgioupolis Beach
The beach stretches for several kilometres along the north coast. The sand is fine and the water deepens gradually – perfect if you are travelling with children.
The small chapel of Agios Nikolaos stands on a dam in the sea. It is considered the most famous landmark of Georgioupolis.
When the weather is calm, you can walk there. The western section, Kalivaki Beach, is usually a little more relaxed than the main beach.
Eucalyptus trees provide shade on the way to the beach. Sun loungers and parasols are available for hire on the beach itself.
At the eastern end, the Almyros River flows into the sea, creating a small wetland.
Activities and water experiences
The water in Georgioupolis is mostly calm and clear. Swimming is safe here because there are hardly any currents.
That’s why families especially love this place. You can rent pedal boats or paddle up the Almyros River in a kayak.
With a bit of luck, you may see turtles in the river. Some providers even organise boat trips along the coast.
Lake Kournas is only four kilometres away. It is Crete’s only natural freshwater lake – ideal for swimming or pedal boating.
In summer, a tourist train runs from the village to the lake. But you can also just walk there if you feel like it.
Gastronomy and tavernas
Tavernas and restaurants line the beach promenade. Most serve fresh fish and Cretan classics.
You can often sit with a direct view of the sea. Prices are moderate, at least compared to other tourist resorts on the north coast.
Many taverns offer shaded terraces under plane or eucalyptus trees. Try grilled octopus or dakos – a Cretan starter with tomatoes and rusks.
In the village of Kournas above the lake, you will find more tavernas with a view. The villages of Argyroupolis in the hinterland are known for their tavernas at natural springs, where trout from their own farms are served.
From Georgioupolis, you can reach these mountain villages in about 20 minutes by car.
Lake Kournas: pure enjoyment of nature
Lake Kournas is Crete’s only natural freshwater lake. It is located about 43 km east of Chania in the middle of a picturesque mountain landscape.
Here you can swim in the clear water or go pedal boating. With a little luck, you may see rare animals such as turtles or various species of birds.
Landscape and flora & fauna
Lake Kournas nestles between rolling hills and olive groves. In the middle, the water is up to 22.5 metres deep.
In winter, the water level rises due to springs from the mountains. In summer, it recedes, exposing a strip of golden sand.
The shallow water at the shore remains crystal clear and becomes darker towards the centre. The green surroundings are reflected on the water’s surface.
The lake is protected by the Natura 2000 programme, which shows how important it is ecologically.
Some say the landscape is reminiscent of old film sets. A hiking trail leads around the lake. From there, you will discover new views of the water and mountains.
Swimming and pedalo riding
You can swim in the lake – the water is clean and refreshing. The entrance is shallow and sandy, making it ideal for families with children.
The water quality convinces many who appreciate the lake as a bathing resort. During the season, you can hire pedal boats and canoes.
This allows you to explore the lake from the water and enjoy the peace and quiet. The best time for a boat trip is early in the morning or late in the afternoon when it is less busy.
The prices for boats are affordable, making Lake Kournas a great value destination for families.
Wildlife: birds and turtles
Many different animals live in the lake. You will find:
- Birds: moorhens, ducks, geese, herons and cormorants
- Reptiles: water snakes and rare species of turtles
- Fish: eels and goldfish
It is best to come in the morning or evening when the animals are particularly active. With a little luck, you will see turtles on the shore or in the shallow water.
The lake is an important wetland for the region’s bird life. Feel free to bring binoculars if you want to observe the animals up close.
Food and drink at the lake
There are several tavernas and cafés right on the shore. They offer Greek dishes and drinks, often with a view of the water.
Most of the restaurants have shaded terraces under trees. Here you can take a break before or after exploring the lake.
Prices are reasonable for a tourist area. Typical dishes include souvlaki, Greek salad, tzatziki and fresh fish.
Some establishments provide sun loungers and parasols on the beach, allowing you to combine dining with a relaxing day by the water.
The Panagia Church in Alikambos & the Askifou War Museum
Panagia Church: History & Architecture
The Panagia Church is tucked away in a valley below Alikambos. Old oak trees and other trees provide shade and give the place a special charm.
The church is dedicated to the Dormition of the Virgin Mary. Some also call it Panagia Sourouthiani or Sirothiani.
The building has a single nave and a vaulted ceiling. The frescoes by Joánnis Pagoménos from 1315-1316 are particularly noteworthy.
The murals are amazingly well preserved. They depict religious scenes in bright colours.
Although they are over 700 years old, you can still see the details quite clearly. It is best to park in front of the fountain house on the edge of the village – from there, a narrow path leads to the church.
There is a spring with fresh water nearby.
Askifou War Museum: Overview
The War Museum in Askifou tells the story of Georgios A. Chatzidakis. He was born on 12 December 1931 in a mountain village in Sfakia and died 76 years later on the same day.
At the age of ten, Georgios witnessed the German invasion of Crete. Bombs destroyed his family home, he himself was seriously injured and was left with a large scar on his forehead.
His younger sister died in the attacks. The family fled to Georgioupolis, where they found refuge.
These experiences shaped Georgios. He began collecting items from the Battle of Crete.
Today, the collection comprises more than 2,000 objects from the years 1940 to 1944:
- Weapons and military equipment
- Soldiers’ personal belongings
- Documents and photographs
- Everyday objects from the occupation period
His son Andreas is continuing the work and expanding the collection.
Experience Alikambos village
Alikambos is a picturesque village in Apokoronas. Here you can still feel the authentic Cretan atmosphere – far away from mass tourism.
The village is situated in a hilly landscape with olive groves. The traditional stone houses are well preserved.
You can try local specialities in small tavernas. In addition to the Panagia Church, there are other small chapels to discover in the village.
The inhabitants are friendly and helpful. Many even speak some German or English.
Frequently asked questions
This region east of Chania offers an exciting mix of ancient sites, nature experiences and activities for families. Here are answers to the most important questions about sights, activities and useful tips for your visit.
What sights should not be missed in Souda Bay?
Souda Bay is one of the largest natural harbours in the Mediterranean. From the surrounding hills, you can enjoy impressive views of the water and the White Mountains.
Ancient Aptera is located directly above the bay and combines history with panoramic views. The small island of Souda in the bay has an Ottoman fortress that you can see from the shore.
Marathi and Kalives used to serve as trading ports for Aptera. Today, you will find taverns and beaches there.
Can you visit ancient ruins in Aptera, and what is there to see?
Of course, Aptera is located about 15 kilometres east of Chania and is quite easy to reach. The city dates back to the 8th century BC and had its heyday in the Hellenistic period.
You can walk along the impressive city wall with its main gate – part of it is still in remarkably good condition. The Roman theatre from the 1st century AD attracts many visitors.
There are also ruins of Roman baths and huge cisterns that used to store water. On the Acropolis stands a two-tiered temple from the 5th century BC – quite fascinating, if you ask me.
In the 19th century, the Ottomans built the Koule fortress using stones from the old city walls. From up there, you have a great view of Souda Bay – it’s really worth it!
On the grounds, you will also find the monastery of St. John the Theologian, which dates back to the 16th or 17th century. Admission costs a few euros, so it’s definitely affordable.
What activities does the Drapanos peninsula offer holidaymakers?
The Drapanos peninsula is located between Souda Bay and the open sea. Here you will find quiet beaches that are usually not as crowded as those in Chania town.
Kalyves is quite popular, mainly because of its long sandy beach and many tavernas. If you feel like doing some water sports, you can try windsurfing or kayaking.
Almyrida has a sheltered beach that is really convenient for families. The area is also great for hiking – the trails lead through olive groves and small, sleepy villages.
In Plaka, a traditional fishing village, you can enjoy fresh fish served right at the harbour. The peninsula also hides a few Venetian and Ottoman ruins that you can discover.
What are the highlights in Georgioupolis for families with children?
Georgioupolis has a long, flat sandy beach – perfect for children because the water remains calm and shallow. A river flows through the town directly into the sea, where you can hire pedal boats.
The small chapel of Agios Nikolaos stands on a breakwater about 100 metres from the beach. You can easily get there via a dam.
Large plane trees provide shade in the main square, and there are many child-friendly restaurants around. You will also find playgrounds near the beach.
The town is small, so you can explore everything on foot. There are bicycle rentals, and because everything is so flat, cycling with children is really fun here.
Are there any recommendations for restaurants or cafés at Lake Kournas?
Right on Lake Kournas, you will find several tavernas by the water. They offer traditional Cretan dishes and a great view of the lake.
Most of them serve fresh fish, grilled meat and various mezze. You can sit under shady trees and watch the turtles or ducks in the lake – it’s really quite nice.
The prices are reasonable and the portions are more than enough. Some tavernas even rent out pedal boats, so you can take to the water straight after your meal.
If you like it quiet, it’s best to come early in the morning or late in the afternoon. At lunchtime in summer, it gets quite hot and crowded.
What stories and exhibits await me at the Askifou War Museum?
The Askifou War Museum is located on the Askifou plateau. You’ll find this small, private museum about halfway between Chania and the south coast.
It’s all about the resistance during the Second World War. The exhibition displays weapons, uniforms and personal items belonging to German and Allied soldiers.
You’ll also find equipment used by the Cretan resistance fighters. If you’re interested in history, you’ll definitely find something to interest you here.
